If the cable on your LaSalle Bristol Cable-Actuated RV Waste Valve # 34466N4BB72GM is moving but the valve is not opening then it has been disconnected internally from the valve stopper. You are most likely going to need to cut into the stopper housing to pull it back to avoid a mess while trying to dump the black tank. You'll then need to replace the valve with a new waste valve. view full answer...
If you can still open the valve, you do not need to replace it. All you need is a different extension rod like the Valterra Waste Valve Extension Tube with Handle - 8" # TX8HPB or the Valterra Waste Valve Extension Tube with Handle - 24" # TX24HPB. view full answer...
You can try removing the screw, but I don't believe that's the issue. It sounds like your cable might be broken or the actual valve has just locked up or "frozen". There is currently not a replacement cable available for the LaSalle Bristol Waste Valves. You may be able to spray it down with some lubricating grease or even a cooking spray like Pam to try to see if that might allow it to loosen itself up.
If there are 4 screws holding the front hub onto the valve as you can see in the... view full answer...
Something getting hung up would not trip a circuit breaker on the Valterra EZ Valve Electric Waste Valve for RV Black Water Tank # E40B-8. If you are having an issue with the breaker getting tripped the issue is almost certainly going to be because the circuit you are wired to is pulling more amps it is capable of. This valve pulls 2.5 amps so you may want to try and wire it directly to a battery if possible. view full answer...
You can lubricate the valve by dumping some vegetable oil in and working the valve open and closed. If you can take off your valve without it being a huge hassle or have your valve is right at the opening I recommend using some water resistant silicone lubricant WD40 spray. If this doesn't solve your issue and you decide to replace your valve we offer a wide variety of valves like the Valterra Bladex Waste Valve for RV Black Water Tank - 3" Hub to 3" Spigot Item # T40 or valves that come... view full answer...
It is completely within the realm of possibilities that the actuator has become disconnected from the gate internally causing the valve to not open. The Valterra Waste Valve Body for RV Black Water Tank w/ Coupler, Seals, and Hardware - 3" Diameter # T1003PBC you were looking at will mount with four bolts allowing you to easy swap out the old valve and install this new one. An example of this valve attaching to other fittings using four bolts would be the # T50A.
I recommend just replacing... view full answer...
In order to fix your loose cable on your LaSalle Bristol Cable-Actuated RV Waste Valve for Black Water Tank # 34466N4AB36GM, you will need to tighten the set screw that holds the cable to the valve stem.
To do this. you're going to need to first loosen the set screw at the end of the cable housing (shown below). After this is done, you will then need to slide the valve actuator body off of the valve body itself to expose a yet another set screw. This will be located on the opposite end... view full answer...
I reached out to the manufacturer about this question and they replied, when the EZ Electric Valve is activated, it is fully open or fully closed. There is no way to throttle the flow.
However, this unit, the Valterra EZ Valve Electric Waste Valve for RV Black Water Tank Item # E1003VP, does have a manual override in case you need to have this unit be partially opened or closed, it can be done.
To activate manual override, there is a pin that is able to be pulled out, then rotate the... view full answer...
It actually looks like the cable on your tank valve is broken, which is why you're getting the extra cable pulled out there in the photo. It looks like what would typically hold that cable handle in place has been stripped out possibly. I'd open it up and see what's going on back there, but in all likelihood you need to replace the cable with something like the Valterra Waste Valve Cable # TC120PB which is a 120" long cable. These do come in a pretty good selection of lengths so I've linked... view full answer...
The Valterra Bladex RV Waste Valve Seals - 1-1/2" - Qty 2, # T1001-9VP, may have just been tightened too much. I suggest giving them a little more room to work by loosening those bolts a little. It sounds like they are overly compressed. view full answer...
I'm sorry to hear about the issues you are having in the cold weather. I reached out to my contact at Valterra and they said that cold shouldn't be an issue with operation unless there is moisture in the cables or if the cables have kinks or coils. The orientation of horizontal versus vertical should not be a factor.
If it were me, I'd start with trying to lubricate the cable system using penetrating oil like and working it as far into the cables as you can by working them open and... view full answer...
I spoke with Valterra and they stated that there's a microswitch inside of the Valterra EZ Valve Electric Waste Valve # E40B-8 that isn't sensing that the gate is fully closing causing the fuse to blow. This could be either an obstruction blocking the gate or just something on the sensor itself. I recommend using a hose to try and clean out the line and seeing if that solves the issue. You can hook on an adapter like the Valterra Hydroflush Reverse Flush Adapter # F02-4110 to connect a... view full answer...
Unfortunately LaSalle Bristol completely covers the connection point in plastic so the only way to gain access to gate inside the LaSalle Bristol Cable-Actuated RV Waste Valve # 34466N4BB96GM would be to cut into the plastic for the cord and physically pull the gate up. You'll have to replace the gate valve once you're done draining the tank so I recommend going with a Valterra valve since they leave the connection point open for access.
We have the following cable lengths for a 3" Valterra... view full answer...
I would probably disconnect the cable from the camper so it lays out on the ground under the trailer to ensure that there are no kinks or nicks in the cable. Then I would try to put some oil into the cable (from the handle end) to see if you can free it up. Lastly I would take the valve apart at the four bolts
It is probably not going to be pleasant, but you will need to take that valve apart and see what is the matter. Can you now move the gate part of the valve - moving the cable at... view full answer...
I can't be sure how the end of the rod at the blade of the valve is attached. If the handle and rod we can see turn freely, then I would turn the rod clockwise to see if you can get it to thread into something. I am going to guess that yanking on that T-handle for the past few years has broke that end off.
The real issue here is the fact that the blank tank is full. You are going to be replacing this valve so there is no loss for cracking it open. I would put your sewer hose on and have... view full answer...
It could just be a weird connection the wires are making with the switch causing the light to stay on. I'd recommend checking the connections to the switch and make sure they're seated properly and making a good connection to the switch.
If the wires going to the switch are fine, and everything is connected properly, then I'd recommend just swapping out the switch with another switch like the Single Momentary Switch # 37213845. view full answer...
Your black tank valve could be stuck for a couple of reasons. At the valve there could be an ice jam preventing the valve door from closing fully. There could be something else blocking the valve door. Let's say your grandson dropped some Hot Wheels into the toilet and now they are stuck at the valve.
Another possibility is that the valve door or pull cable are stuck in some way. I would suggest forcing as much lubricant as possible into the cable and around the valve door to see if you... view full answer...
It sounds like the pressure relief valve on your tankless RV water heater may be faulty or not seated properly. If the pressure relief valve is faulty, it would need to be replaced.
- Camco RV Water Heater Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve # CAM10423 (1/2" valve)
- Camco RV Water Heater Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve # CAM10473 (3/4" valve)
Depending on the manufacturer of the water heater and the age, it may be covered under warranty. Before reaching out to the manufacturer... view full answer...
Usually what causes an RV tank valve to leak is something getting caught in the disc/valve causing water to seep through.
I recommend attempting to flush your tanks out and seeing if that clears whatever may be causing the leak. If that does not solve the issue, then I recommend replacing the valve with a replacement like the Camco RV Wastewater Tank Replacement Valve # CAM39513.
If you let me know what kind of valve you have right now, and are wanting a replacement, then I'd be more... view full answer...
The pressure relief valve on your Furrion RV Tankless Water Heater # FR68SR could potentially be faulty from the manufacturer but before you make a warranty claim to Furrion you should test to see if the valve is correctly seated. Pull the lever on the valve and let it drain out for about 30 seconds and then release the lever back to the closed position.
If the valve continues to leak then it most likely is faulty and will need to be replaced. view full answer...
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